Tempting kebabs, fragrant biryani, and fluffy, cloud-like desserts.
The metropolis in India's north of Lucknow has forever been a dream destination for epicures, with residents and visitors equally celebrating its remarkable cuisine.
An International Accolade
In a recent announcement, The United Nations Educational, Scientific and Cultural Organization honored it as a UNESCO Creative City for Gastronomy – adding it to a select list of global cities and sparking hopes that it will highlight Lucknow's exceptional food. With this designation, it joins a worldwide network of more than four hundred cities across over 100 countries committed to promoting "innovation as a catalyst of city development that is sustainable".
The accolade "demonstrates its centuries-old gastronomic legacy and dynamic gastronomic culture," as noted by a official from UNESCO's regional bureau for South Asia.
Lucknow is only the second Indian city – following Hyderabad, which was picked in 2019 – to earn a spot in this prestigious list of 70 global destinations worldwide.
A City Defined by Food
The recognition for this historic city is hardly a shock to its locals or dedicated food lovers. Many share the sentiment that it is "an honor long overdue".
With the UNESCO accolade, this beloved, bustling, and eclectic city – the capital of India's largest state – is now in the global gaze for what has perennially shaped its soul: an immense love for food.
"'The day's menu, how should it be prepared' is a constant conversation from morning until night in most homes," states a local cultural expert. "And you are actually evaluated by the standard of food that emerges from your kitchen."
An Imperial Food Tradition
The City of the Nawabs – as it's often referred to after its 18th and 19th Century opulent Muslim rulers – is renowned for its melt-in-the-mouth kebabs and a unique take on biryani that were conceived, evolved, and taken to extraordinary levels in their opulent kitchens.
These imperial kitchens were centers of food experimentation, blending Iranian and local Indian styles to create what became known as the cuisine of Awadh.
It was in this era that Lucknow's iconic kebabs were created. The story goes that the galouti kebab was invented to feed an elderly nawab who had lost his teeth. His cooks minced the meat with raw papaya, kesar, and spices and made it so silky that it required no chewing.
But arguably the biggest contribution of the chefs of Awadh was the slow-cook Dum pukht technique, where food is cooked on a low, slow heat, with the container's cover securely sealed with dough.
Beyond Kebabs and Biryani
In addition to the well-known kebabs and biryani, the cooks also created a repertoire of dishes that included kormas (rich curries), sheermal (saffron-infused flatbread), and shahi tukda (a rich bread pudding).
However, Lucknow is not only about kebabs and biryani – the region is also a haven for vegetarians.
The local traditionally vegetarian community's cuisine not only showcases fresh harvests but also offers the city its exquisitely crafted Indian desserts, sweets, and distinctive street food, like chaat – zesty fried snacks.
Iconic Stalls and Historic Shops
Virtually on many street corners, there are small establishments and stalls – lesser-known gems that are extremely loved by the locals.
In the heart of the city of Hazratganj, large gatherings start assembling from 5 am at a renowned tea stall to get a steaming cup of spiced tea with milk, presented in kulhads, along with pillowy soft buns covered in freshly churned white butter.
To start the day, one can head to a unpretentious joint situated in the historic quarter of Aminabad. Nearly 150 years after it was set up, the place is still much sought-after for its hot kachoris (fried bread stuffed with lentils) and jalebis (crispy, syrup-soaked sweets).
Preserving Tradition for the Future
The city also offers special seasonal delights, such as makkhan malai, a cloud-like dessert found in the winter. The method of making it is precise and demanding. The artisan hand-churns the milk and then sets it out at night, allowing the dew to give it its unique light consistency.
On chilly mornings, street vendors can be seen in old city areas like Aminabad and Chowk. A number of though note that their children are unwilling to master the craft.
A celebrity chef from Lucknow has often said that the city's immense food legacy positions it at the very pinnacle of the Indian street food experience. The real value from the UNESCO recognition, however, will materialize only if Lucknow can now generate interest about its lesser-known eateries.
Every dish in Lucknow comes with a history – crafted by family-run food businesses, from modest street carts to bustling restaurants, and secret family recipes.
The global recognition, it is hoped, will inspire more people worldwide to learn these stories and visit the city to savour the gastronomic treasures of Lucknow.
